adventures off the beaten path.
[PHOTO ESSAY]: 7 Days in Israel
Floating at the Dead Sea, where Jesus could walk on water even if he wasn’t Jesus.
There is a certain initial aggression that permeates the air here in Israel. I’m not certain whether that is because of the harsh syllables of a language I cannot decipher (the raspy Hebrew “hat” and “raish” sounds that come from the back of one’s throat), or the centuries of war and bloodshed that were fought over these lands, or the fact that it’s mandatory for every Israeli to do military service for three years of their youth, that gives this country the impression of being “playfully aggressive“.
Israeli military hanging out with a machine gun in a public square in Jerusalem.
Tel Aviv: I love cities by the sea. A fun way to explore the city is renting a green TeloFun bike, the city’s ecofriendly bike share system.
Israel's national fruit, fresh pomegranates (rimmon) in the market.
Knicks-knacks from The Arab souk (market) in Jerusalem’s Old City.
Like the fruit that is ubiquitous in their fresh fruit markets, the pomegranate (or rimmon as they call it in Hebrew), there is a toughness here that appears harsh and impenetrable on the surface. Vendors shouting their wares at the market, claiming that they are best at what they do, luring and enticing you into a room of knick knacks for the best prices. Insulting you if you do not buy.
With the Israeli border police
The Ancient City of Akko (Acre), a UNESCO World Heritage Site
Sunrise at The Sea of Galilee (Lake Kineret), where Jesus walked on water.
Under a tree at Ein Gedi Hotel , a boutique hotel and spa located on a kibbutz, a utopian collective based on a combination of socialist and Zionist principles.
Yet an aggression like this is not unfounded within a land with such a history of political neuroses. By this, I mean a land comprised of peoples who have long fought to establish their political borders.
This hostility is coupled with a sense of humor and forgiving charm that masks a certain insecurity of a very newly established country. Remember, there was no State of Israel before 1948. This was hard fought land and the Israeli government has invested a lot of money to defend it. According to the Stockholm International Peace Research Institute, Israel spent 6.2% of their GDP in 2012 on military expenditure. That’s a significant sum for such a small country.
House of Simon the Tanner in Old Jaffa, where St. Peter had his dream about spreading Christianity to gentiles.
Oh, if these walls could talk. Walking through the streets of Old Jaffa
Exploring local artwork at the museum of the celebrated Israeli artist Ilana Goor in Jaffa.
Vintage posters for sale at the Jaffa Flea Market.
The playful yet aggressive humor and charm of the locals expose harsh truths in digestible bite-size pieces. Here, talks of bombs and guns are matter-of-fact and casual, even over dinner. It comes with little drama, and perhaps even a joke or three. The locals I met during my stay have a great sense of humor, although it may run rather dark.
Box of old photographs for sale at the Jaffa Flea Market
Strolling around the Jaffa Flea Market where you can find anything from Iranian carpets to vintage Toulouse-Lautrec posters and more.
Camel on the side of the road at the Sea Level Monument.
Israeli Breakfast of hummus, Israeli salad and labaneh (strained yogurt) at David Intercontinental Hotel in Tel-Aviv
It is their reality (whether we judge it to be harsh or not) that the land they are living on has always been historically a very politically coveted land –the epicenter of the Jewish, Christian and Muslim faiths.
Making shakshuka, eggs poached in a sauce of tomatoes, chili peppers, onions and cumin at Dr. Shakshuka
Wailing at The Kotel aka The Western Wall
Exploring the underground tunnels in the City of David.
Golgotha Altar, the site where Jesus was crucified, at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre.
Even Hello Kitty loves Jerusalem.
They know what they have and they don’t take it for granted.There is a very strong work ethic here and food does not go to waste. And once you understand what the cacophony of Hebrew actually means, it’s not that aggressive at all… but instead liberal, witty, creative, open-minded, community-oriented and warm.
Schindler’s List at The Holocaust Memorial at Yad Vashem. For a longer post on the Holocaust Memorial, click here.
Penis wall hooks by celebrated Israeli artist, Ilana Goor, at her museum in Jaffa.
Listening to famous Israeli singer/songwriter Karolina sing live at hipster hangout Rothschild 12 in Tel Aviv.
Even the bartenders belly dance in Tel Aviv.
Iron Sheep Art at The Efendi Hotel in Akko
Dancing on the Bar. Just a crazy Friday night out in Tel Aviv at Ilka Bar. Make sure you go out on a Friday night for a real taste of Tel Aviv nightlife. Saturday nights are pretty chill because the workweek begins on Sunday.
Like the tough exterior of their national fruit, once you crack open the surface of Israel, there is a multi-faceted feast – a cornucopia of cultures, religions and races (Christian, Muslim, Jewish, German, Yemenite and more) that co-exist side by side.I feel that in the seven days that I’ve traveled through Israel, I’ve only cracked the surface of this rimmon. I will definitely be back again soon to taste more of the fruit.
Meanwhile, I’ll just dream of the delicious desserts…
Vanilla Soy Ice Cream with Halva (crushed sesame seeds and honey) at Hatchazer in Jerusalem.
Baklava sitting scrumptiously for sale at a market.
MUST DO
The Dead Sea
The Sea of Galilee (Lake Kineret)
The Kotel (Western Wall) in The Old City, Jerusalem
Walk through Hezekiah’s Tunnel in Jerusalem's City of David, +972 2-6268700
Yad Vashem Holocaust Memorial in Jerusalem - HaZikaron, Jerusalem, 91034, Israel +972 2-644-3400
MUST EAT
Uri Buri Fish and Seafood Restaurant - HaHagana 11, Acre, 24315, Israel +972 4-955-2212
Dr. Shakshuka - Beit Eshel 3, Tel Aviv, 68025, Israel +972 3-682-2842
Pomegranate juice from Mahane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem
Vanilla Soy Ice Cream with Halva (crushed sesame seeds and honey) at Hatchazer in Jerusalem - 7 Derech Beit Lehem, Jerusalem, +972 02-6719922
MUST SHOP
Jaffa Flea Market - East of the Clock Tower,Tel Aviv, Israel +972 3-527-2691
Ahava – Natural Dead Sea Bath Products
MUST DRINK
Nightlife in Tel Aviv
Radio EPGB - Shadal 7, Tel Aviv, 65781, Israel +972 3-560-3636
Rothschild 12 - 12 Rothschild Blvd, Tel Aviv-Jaffa, Israel +972 3-510-6430
Ilka Bar - Dizengoff 148, Tel Aviv, Israel +972 54-803-0706
Nanuchka - Lilienblum 30, Tel Aviv, Israel +972 3-516-2254
MUST STAY
The Efendi Hotel in Akko - Louis IX St. 24124 Akko, Israel +972-74-7299799 reservation@efendi-hotel.com
Ein Gedi Hotel - Dead Sea Ein Gedi 86980 Israel +972-8-6594222 info.resort@ein-gedi.co.il